Project Fit – Fat Mat Sound Deadening Install – Part III

I installed the last of my 30sq/ft of Fat Mat Sound Deadening a few weeks back. I still need to order another 50-75 sq/ft to finish the entire car. This last few sq/ft all went on the right side rear window area and wheel well of the hatch. The only area of the hatch left to finish is the left side window area and wheel well. After that I’ll do the 4 doors, the entire floor from the hatch forward and perhaps some of the roof.

As always here are some photos of the most recent work. I am hoping to have more deadening ordered soon along with some other new goodies.

Update 3/2/13 – See my review of FatMat here.


Here you can see the long OEM piece of deadening on the wheel well. I stuck single piece of Fat Mat on the outer panel as you can see as well.


Another shot showing the complete lack of OEM deadening.


Here is the first layer of Fat Mat.


Here we are after filling in some more of the voids.


This is much better, I can’t wait to have more so I can finish the entire car.


This makes a huge difference, it will only get better once the entire car is complete.


That is all for now. The trim panels all went back on without issue. I make sure to not cover any of the screw holes or panel snap holes.

Project Fit Update – Sub Box Speaker Wire Bolt Connections

I finally installed the speaker wire bolt connection setup I got when I built the box originally. It is simply 2 bolts and nuts with washers to connect the speakers to the amp. I didn’t want to bother with a terminal cup because I intend to install 10-12g wire with ring terminals eventually. I just bolted the bare copper down for now. This low power setup wouldn’t benefit much from more anyway. I also cleaned up the amp wiring a little bit, plus it looks much better without the speaker wiring hanging out of the port.


Speakers removed to drill holes and connect the wiring.


All 4 speakers connected in parallel.


Holes drilled, just large enough for the bolts. I also added silicon when installing.


Speaker wires bolted down inside.


Outside of the box, with just enough wire to reach the amp.


How it looks in the back now, much cleaner.


Extra sub shot… 4 x Lanzar MAX10D


Cleaned up the wiring around the amp. I also utilized both connections on the amp, so two pairs of the thin speaker wire feeds the 4 instead of just one.

That is all for now, more updates soon.

Project Fit – FatMat Deadener Install on Hatch Door

I installed 6 sq/ft in the Project Fit tonight. I did the hatch door and did a small piece on the license plate too. The hatch door comes off via 2 push pins, and a center plug deal. You can remove both via a small flat screwdriver. The handle inset also needs to pop out. I used the same screw driver to pop it out.

Update 3/2/13 – See my review of FatMat here.


I actually took this picture after but here is what the OEM Fit hatch door looks like with the trim on.


I circled all the pieces you need to remove to get the plastic hatch trim off. Once these are off you just pop it off, like a door panel. Plastic clips hold it on, so pull hard. Some might stay on the hatch, just use pliers to pull them out and stick them back on the plastic panel before installing it back on the hatch.


Stock 07 Honda Fit Hatch door with plastic trim removed, no sound deadening at all. The plastic trim piece has a small bit of felt on the backside, I didn’t take a photo of it though.


The start of the FatMat install on the Project Fit.


Here it is almost done, just a bit more deadener to go.


Here is the final pic, this is after 6 sq/ft of FatMat sound deadener.

DIY Slot Ported Box Build with 4 Lanzar MAX10D Subs for Project Fit

I finally got some 3/4″ MDF to build the box for the Lanzar MAX10Ds I got so this post will feature my design and a few build photos of the enclosure. It is 5.4cu/ft before woofer and port displacement, 4.4 cu/ft after. This gives each sub 1.1 cu/ft. The box is tuned to 33hz and features a rear mounted slot port, the woofers face up. The port size could be a bit larger but I figured it will do, it is 18.5″ x 2.5″ x 17.75″ long. This leaves about 5″ between the port and the front of the box.

SPL Science Slot Ported box for 4 x Lanzar MAX10D


Rough 3-d sketch of the box


Box layout from a single 4′ x 8′ sheet of 3/4″ MDF.

Box Specs 

  • 24″ x 24″ x 20″ tall
  • 5.4 cu/ft prior to woofer/port displacement ; 4.4 cu/ft after
  • 18.5″ x 2.5″ x 17.75″ long slot port (Rear facing)
  • 4 x Lanzar MAX10D Subwoofers (Top mounted) Wired to 2 ohm final load (DVC woofers in wired series @ 8 ohms, then all paralleled together)
  • 3/4″ MDF 8×4 sheet (didn’t use the entire thing)
  • Elmers Max Wood Glue
  • 2″ Screws (Lots)
  • 1″ Screws to mount woofers. If I had a double top plate I’d use the 2″ but with only 3/4″ no sense using longer than 1″.
  • Total Cost – $96 for 4 Woofers, $33 for the sheet of 3/4″ MDF, $8 worth of Screws, $6 Glue = $143 plus carpet and a terminal cup.


Drawing out the holes for the 10’s. Still just testing fit before mounting anything together.


Test fitting the wood before building.

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